Casual Fine Dining at Pomona

Just when you least expect it, or at least, are not really looking for it, an amazing moment has a way of sneaking up on you. In this case, the unexpected revelation revealed itself on a recent Wednesday night in the form of a Sarasota restaurant known as Pomona Bistro and Wine Bar.

Pomona's Partners: Executive Chef Ryan Boeve, left, and Pastry Chef Arthur Lopes

It's not like Pomona is off Sarasota foodies fine-dining radar. It's had a successful first winter season under it's belt since opening in December, 2010, and features the culinary pedigrees of former Zoria Restaurant partners, unassuming Executive Chef Ryan Boeve and frontman, Pastry Chef Arthur Lopes. The french inspired menu features fresh local ingredients, while the decor and feel is upscale, but casual. There is also outdoor seating in a nicely appointed courtyard. During several previous visits, this elegant Bistro just north of downtown on Orange Street in the Citrus Square development, has delivered a solid dining experience.

an amusing beginning

Our latest Pomona foray took things up a notch, magically morphing into a four-course food frolic. From the first of two delectable amuse bouche's, (those little starter surprises), to the last sip of port, this satisfying evening shined. It helped that the six of us—Susie and Bob Thill, Janet Minker and Elliott Himelfarb, along with St. Armands friends Dan Snyder and Tom Breit—were seated in the new, private Chef's Table room. (Be sure to reserve well in advance, it's going to be a major hit.) And it also didn't hurt that co-proprieter Arthur was our lead waiter.

Here's how the evening played out. Newly-hired Sommelier Michael Helmer is a smart addition and proved his wine chops by steering us through a perfectly paired series of reasonably priced vino. We began with an off menu French sparkling Vouvre brut. It worked nicely with the two amuse bouche presentations: a small tri-color beet bite with parsley, followed by a mini prociutto-wrapped fig.

Scallops Supreme

Next on our gastronomic adventure was perfectly prepared tender sea scallops with roasted heirloom tomatoes, a superb tomato broth with nicoise olives and basil. The exquisitely delicate dish (perhaps the best of the night) was paired with a crisp, non-oaky Chardonnay.

Braised beef short ribs, with a light horseradish cream, pearl onions and topped with a split-carrot garnish followed. Melt in your mouth tender, the beef dish was accompanied by a medium bodied 2009 Mendicino County Couloir Pinot Noir.

Souffle's await serving in Pomona's well-run kitchen.

Just when we thought we'd run out of superlatives, our now sated palates were treated to two medium-rare lamb chops, resting on top of a quenelle of celery root. This course was paired nicely by Michael again with a full-bodied Straight Line 2009 California Tempranillo.

Pluot Souffle and Chocolate Tort

The kitchen, with it's open door just steps away, is led by veteran chef Chef Ryan. He quietly orchestrates a well-oiled, culinary machine. Ryan and a confident pair of sous chefs efficiently turned out superb dishes, with a no-nonsense flair belying their laid back, almost casual demeanor. Maybe we've been watching too much Food Network TV, but according to Chef Ryan, this is how it's supposed to be. No fires to douse or shouting matches to witness, just well-prepared craftsmen doing what they do best.

We couldn't turn down dessert—a delicious duo featuring a mini pluot soufflé with creme anglaise and a chocolate tort with chantilly creme and Arthur's signature velvety thin crust. And "why not," we said between bites, as a rich, figgy, amaretto style Recioto della Valpolicello 2002 Italian dessert wine was opened and served alongside. Another sweet pairing, and a perfect ending to a finely executed dining experience.

Chef Ryan and staff pose with the smiling and sated diners.

The Chef's Table offers either a 4-course ($65) or 7-course ($95) menu, although our 4-course meal was more than satisfying. If you get a chance to dine at Pomona before the Season sets in, tell 'em your Lido Shores News Editors sent you.

Bon Appetite!
~ BT & JM

Pomona Bistro & Wine Bar

481 North Orange, Sarasota, FL 34236
Reservations 941-706-1677
www.pomonabistroandwine.com


Editors note: If you'd like to contribute and share your favorite Sarasota dining experiences, or comment on this one, let us hear from you! lidoshores@gmail.com